APPLES & PEARS (MALUS AND PYRUS)
In order to have fruit from apple and pear trees,
you need a second
tree for cross-pollination. As long as the second tree is within
500 feet (150 m), pollination should occur. Within city limits,
most apple and pear trees will be pollinated by insects carrying
pollen from the neighbours trees.
If your apple or pear trees are not performing well,
the following trouble-shooting
list may help you to determine why:
rainy weather conditions during flowering.
Unfortunately, other than hoping for better luck
next year, there is
nothing to be done.
unproductive trees that do not flower.
Generally, apple and pear trees have a productive
life span of about 30
to 40 years. Trees older than this should be replaced; we
do however, know of a 70-year-old apple tree that continues to
produce heavily each year. Trees can be rejuvenated by removing
old, unproductive growth and allowing new growth to
poor crop the year following a bumper crop.
Some apple varieties have a tendency to perform
biennially, with a
great crop one year, not much the next, and a better crop
again the third year.
tree of the same genus (i.e. Malus)
It is best to pollinate fruit trees of the same
genus with each other
apples with apples, or pears with pears but pears can
cross-pollinate with apples, as long as both trees bloom at the
other cultivar in yard is sterile.
Some but not all ornamental crabapple trees work for
A few varieties have sterile pollen.
of pollinating insects, such as bees.
Try adding to your flowerbeds. Most flowering plants
are almost guaranteed
to attract bees. The annual herb borage and the
perennial beebalm (Monarda)
are especially good for this purpose.
Because their flowering times coincide with those of many
fruit trees, marigolds, pansies, spurge, trollius, and arabis
are the best choices.
trees are of the same variety.
Clones will not pollinate each other; for example, a
Norland apple tree
cannot pollinate another Norland apple tree.
European apricots are self-pollinating. Only one
tree is needed for
fruit production. Manchurian and Siberian apricots fruit more
dependably when other apricot varieties or Nanking cherries are
CHERRIES & PLUMS (PRUNUS)
Sour cherries are self-pollinating; only one
tree is needed for
fruit production. Evans, Montmorency, Northstar and Latowski
fall into this category.
Plums and cherry-plums are divided into five
different groups: American
Hybrids, Damson, European, Japanese and Native. The plums that we
grow here fall into only 3 of these groups: American
Hybrids, Japanese and Native.
In order for cross-pollination to occur, it is
essential that the varieties
bloom at the same time. Varieties that bloom mid-season will
cross-pollinate both early and late-blooming varieties, as
well as other mid-season bloomers.
Many chokecherries will also aid in
cross-pollination. The closer the
relationship between species,the larger and more abundant the
fruit will be.
Grapes are self-pollinating. Cross-pollination is
not essential, but
some hybrids may have non-viable pollen. In this case, purchasing
2 or more varieties would
solve the problem. Regular pruning
is essential for fruit production. To do this, remove all suckers
from the base of leaves after the end of June. Remove ends
of canes two to three leaves past the last fruit cluster. Remove
all non-producing canes.
Blueberries are self-pollinating, but two or more
varieties will result
in better yields and larger berries.
CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES (RIBES)
Currants and gooseberries are self-pollinating.
Excellent fruit production
can be obtained with just one plant. If currants are grown
near gooseberries or jostaberries however, yields can be even
Black currants perform better when different
cultivars are grown
together. Note that black currants will not cross with red or
white currants; the reverse is also true.
STRAWBERRIES, RASPBERRIES AND SASKATOONS
Strawberries, raspberries and saskatoons are all